Nuestra Mercancía, Nosotros Mismos – The New York TimesNuestra Mercancía, Nosotros Mismos – The New York Times

In my experience, if you want to recreate the 1960s winged eyeliner that Cailee Spaeny wears in “Priscilla,” you’ll have to do so without the aid of the limited-edition makeup kit produced by the film’s studio, A24. It’s sold out. Ditto the dark gray sweatshirt with tonal “Priscilla” embroidery across the front. You can, however, still purchase a baby-doll T-shirt bedizened with the film’s title in rhinestones. And the heart-shaped locket by the jewelry designer J. Hannah, inspired by the one Priscilla wears in the movie, which was in turn inspired by one Priscilla Presley actually wore, is still available, in sterling silver ($400) or 14-karat gold ($1,280).

En mi experiencia, si quieres recrear el delineador de ojos alado de los años 60 que Cailee Spaeny usa en “Priscilla”, tendrás que hacerlo sin la ayuda del kit de maquillaje de edición limitada producido por el estudio de cine A24. Está agotado. Lo mismo ocurre con la sudadera gris oscuro con bordado tonal de “Priscilla” en el frente. Sin embargo, todavía puedes comprar una camiseta de bebé adornada con el título de la película en diamantes de imitación. Y el medallón en forma de corazón del diseñador de joyas J. Hannah, inspirado en el que Priscilla lleva en la película, que a su vez fue inspirado en uno que Priscilla Presley realmente llevaba, todavía está disponible, en plata esterlina ($400) o en oro de 14 quilates ($1,280).

I was chatting this week with some colleagues about the locket, about what animates someone to buy a pricey piece of jewelry that’s being sold as a merchandise tie-in for a movie. Is it love for the “stealthily devastating” film “Priscilla”? For Priscilla Presley herself, or Elvis, or the film’s director, Sofia Coppola? Perhaps one just likes the necklace. A24, the studio behind films like “Hereditary,” “Midsommar,” “Uncut Gems” and “Everything Everywhere All at Once,” knows it’s probably some combination of these factors, mixed with love for the studio itself. A24 is known for its canny collaborations with hip designers — a “Hereditary” tee, designed by the trippy design studio Online Ceramics, originally $65, now sells for at least double that if you can track one down on a resale site. You can also buy hoodies, half-snap fleeces, dog leashes and dopp kits featuring the A24 logo.

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Our conversation quickly turned to questions of identity. Why do we buy merch, or shy away from it? What does the merch you wear say about who you are, what you believe in? You might buy a sticker from your local bakery to support the business, or wear a Renaissance tour shirt to declare yourself a member of the BeyHive. “If I ever move away from New York, I’d buy a tote bag from my favorite Brooklyn sandwich shop,” one of my colleagues declared. Carrying the bag in your own city seemed too boosterish, too earnest for a New Yorker, whereas outside the city, the local merch telegraphs your hometown pride and N.Y.C. pedigree. Once you leave the place, the merch becomes a souvenir, a nostalgic keepsake. Another colleague, an avowed merch skeptic, got her daughter an Los Angeles Dodgers shirt when her family relocated from L.A. to New York, memorializing the matrix of allegiances the move evoked.

Our conversation quickly turned to questions of identity. Why do we buy merch, or shy away from it? What does the merch you wear say about who you are, what you believe in? You might buy a sticker from your local bakery to support the business, or wear a Renaissance tour shirt to declare yourself a member of the BeyHive. “If I ever move away from New York, I’d buy a tote bag from my favorite Brooklyn sandwich shop,” one of my colleagues declared. Carrying the bag in your own city seemed too boosterish, too earnest for a New Yorker, whereas outside the city, the local merch telegraphs your hometown pride and N.Y.C. pedigree. Once you leave the place, the merch becomes a souvenir, a nostalgic keepsake. Another colleague, an avowed merch skeptic, got her daughter an Los Angeles Dodgers shirt when her family relocated from L.A. to New York, memorializing the matrix of allegiances the move evoked.

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Quizás, estábamos complicándolo demasiado, volviéndonos muy de la Generación X en nuestra obsesión por la autenticidad. Justin Bieber encendió famosamente la ira de los fanáticos del indie-rock cuando usó una rara camiseta de Nirvana en los American Music Awards en 2015: ¡Cómo se atreve un vendedor de éxitos pop a apropiarse de la credibilidad de una amada institución contracultural! ¿Por qué el merch tiene que significar tanto? Por supuesto, no lo hace. Debatir las leyes del merch es un juego, un ejercicio divertido para cuestionar nuestras propias piedades. Hice no menos de dos amigos en la universidad porque uno de nosotros llevaba puesto una camiseta de Pixies: “Me gusta esta banda, te gusta esta banda, veamos si eso es suficiente para alimentar una relación significativa”. (En ambos casos, lo fue).